Mount Pulag Ambangeg Trail Experience: An Odyssey to the Playground of the Gods

Mount Pulag, standing at 2,926 meters above sea level, is the third highest peak in the Philippines and the highest in Luzon. Known to the indigenous people as the “Playground of the Gods,” it offers a spiritual and physically rewarding experience. While it has several trails, the Ambangeg Trail, often dubbed the “executive trail” or “artista trail,” is the most popular and accessible for beginners.

This comprehensive guide will take you through the entire journey, from preparation to the summit and back.

The Mount Pulag Experience: A Journey of Senses

The Ambangeg Trail is a sensory feast, a gradual unveiling of distinct ecosystems that makes the 10-12 hour round-trip hike feel like a walk through different worlds. The journey typically begins with an early morning assault on the summit, allowing hikers to witness the legendary sea of clouds and sunrise.

The initial part of the trek from the Babadac Ranger Station is a gentle, winding path through a pine forest. The air is crisp and cool, and the scent of pine fills the senses. As you ascend, the trail transforms, leading you into the mystical and ethereal mossy forest. Here, the trees are gnarled and ancient, their branches draped in thick, green moss, creating a landscape straight out of a fantasy novel. The air becomes even colder and more humid, and the silence is broken only by the chirping of insects and the rustling of leaves. The path can be slippery and muddy in this section, requiring careful footing.

Beyond the mossy forest, the trail opens up to the expansive, rolling grasslands. This is where the landscape truly takes your breath away. The terrain is covered in dwarf bamboo and a variety of unique high-altitude plants. The wind here is constant and can be biting, but the view of the undulating hills and the sprawling horizon is a powerful motivator. This part of the trail is relatively easy to traverse, with a gradual incline, and it’s here that you’ll get your first glimpse of the summit.

The sea of clouds

The final push to the peak is an exhilarating ascent. The trail becomes steeper, and the air thins, but the anticipation of the view at the top keeps you going. As you emerge at the summit, the world unfolds before you. The iconic “sea of clouds” stretches as far as the eye can see, a pristine white blanket below a sky of shifting colors. Watching the sunrise paint the clouds in hues of orange, pink, and purple is a moment of profound beauty and accomplishment that makes every step of the journey worthwhile.

The descent via the same trail offers a new perspective. The sun-drenched grasslands reveal a rich tapestry of colors, and the mossy forest appears even more enchanting in the light. The journey back is a time for reflection, a chance to absorb the beauty you’ve just experienced and appreciate the raw, untamed nature of the Cordillera region.

Pre-Climb Requirements and Logistics

Before you can set foot on Mount Pulag, there are several essential requirements to fulfill. It is crucial to be well-prepared, both physically and with the necessary documentation.

• Medical Certificate: A medical certificate stating that you are “fit to hike” is now a mandatory requirement. You can obtain this from a clinic in Baguio City or your local physician. This ensures that you are in good health and can withstand the physical demands of the climb and the high-altitude environment. Make sure to secure the medical certificate few days before your hike. Though if you miss it, you can get one from the local health center, this may eat a lot of you time.
• Permits and Fees: All hikers must register at the DENR (Department of Environment and Natural Resources) Visitors’ Center in Bokod, Benguet. Here, you will pay the necessary fees, including the DENR fee, environmental and cultural heritage fee, and camping or homestay fees.
• Orientation: After registration, you are required to attend a mandatory orientation. This briefing covers the history of Mount Pulag, the rules and regulations of the national park, and the “Leave No Trace” principles, which are strictly enforced to preserve the mountain’s pristine environment.
• Guides: A local guide is required for all hiking groups. Guides can be arranged in advance through tour operators or upon arrival at the Ranger Station.

Since you are taking the “artista trail,” you are probably leaning towards convenience. So I suggest you book a tour package with a trusted operator. We don’t have a recommendation, but please Facebook and be mindful of the reviews.

How to Get There

The journey to Mount Pulag is an adventure in itself, often starting in Baguio City, the gateway to the Cordilleras.

1. From Manila to Baguio: Your trip will likely begin with a bus ride from Manila to Baguio City. Several bus companies offer comfortable, air-conditioned trips, with the journey taking approximately 4-6 hours.
2. From Baguio to the DENR Visitors’ Center: From Baguio, you will need to take a chartered jeepney or van to the DENR Visitors’ Center in Bokod, Benguet. This part of the journey takes around 2-3 hours and offers scenic views of the Halsema Highway.
3. From the DENR to the Ranger Station: After completing the requirements at the DENR, you will proceed to the Babadac Ranger Station, which is the jump-off point for the Ambangeg Trail. The Ranger Station is where you will get a local guide, hire a porter if needed, and prepare for your ascent.

What to Prepare for the Climb

The weather on Mount Pulag is notoriously unpredictable and can drop to near-freezing temperatures, especially at night and during the early morning summit push. Proper gear is non-negotiable.

• Clothing: Layering is key. Start with a moisture-wicking base layer, add a fleece jacket for warmth, and top it off with a waterproof and windproof jacket. Bring at least two pairs of warm pants, two to three pairs of thick socks, gloves, a beanie or bonnet, and a scarf.
• Footwear: Wear sturdy, broken-in hiking shoes or boots with good traction. The trail can be rocky, slippery, and muddy.
• Gear and Equipment:

  • Backpack: A rain-proof backpack is essential to protect your belongings.
  • Sleeping Bag and Mat: A sleeping bag rated for cold temperatures (down to 10°C or lower) and an insulated sleeping mat are crucial for a comfortable night’s rest at the base camp.
  • Headlamp/Flashlight: The pre-dawn trek to the summit requires a reliable light source. Bring extra batteries.
  • Trail Food: Pack high-energy snacks like nuts, chocolates, and energy bars.
  • Water: Bring at least 2-3 liters of water. While there are water sources on the mountain, it’s best to have your own.
  • First-Aid Kit: Include personal medications, pain relievers, bandages, and blister plasters.
  • Toiletries: Pack essentials like a toothbrush, toothpaste, and wet wipes, as shower facilities are limited.

The Base Camp: A Community on the Mountain

For most Ambangeg Trail hikers, the base camp is at Camp 2, located in the grassland area. This is where you will set up your tent or stay in one of the available homestays. The base camp is a vibrant community of hikers, guides, and porters.

If you prefer a comfortable bed over sleeping bags and tents, I recommended you check out Mount Pulag’s Trekkers Homestay. They offer warm rooms at very affordable price with free breakfast. And, by the way, they cook really good food, fresh from the farm. During our visit, we only paid 500 pesos each. Prices may probably change, so check out their Facebook page for the latest rates.

The evening at the base camp is a magical time. As the sun sets, the sky explodes with a brilliant display of stars, a view unobstructed by city lights. The temperature drops rapidly, and you’ll find warmth in the camaraderie of your fellow climbers, sharing stories and meals before an early night’s rest. The quiet anticipation of the next day’s summit push hangs in the air, a silent bond among everyone preparing to witness the sunrise at the “Playground of the Gods.”